The Appeal of Bespoke
August 12th, 2024
Text: Bryan Law
Text: Bryan Law
Source: SSENSE
As RTW (Ready to Wear) clothing continues to skyrocket in price, I can’t help but to wonder where fashion will go from here. Brands which I admire and/or have purchased products from in the past (The Row, Namacheko, Lemaire, Taiga Takahashi, etc.) have steadily increased their suggested retail price every season - causing me to question my sanity and forcing me to rethink my purchasing strategy. The price gouging has gotten to a point where a pair of standard Margiela cotton twill trousers for the upcoming season can now reach an eye watering two bands (USD, of course).
Brands are increasingly relying on seasonal sales to push their inventory - to the point where they are adjusting their MSRP in such a way that they’re actually still making a decent amount of money when things are selling at 70% off à la SSENSE Sale. Not to mention the sheer amount of waste that’s produced. I can’t help but to wonder where a pair A Cold Wall cargo shorts from 5 seasons ago ended up.
But here’s the thing, why would I shell out two grand for a pair of trousers that might not fit me exactly the way I want them when I could just get three pairs that would fit me EXACTLY the way I want them? Enter the world of Made to Order. Call it a sign of maturity - or going sober - but I’ve developed a strong inclination to uniform dressing and purchasing multiples of the same thing with slight variations. There certainly is a comfort in putting on the same darn thing everyday and letting it become an extension of you. And with uniform dressing, bespoke is certainly your friend.
Purchasing a well fitting pair of trousers or shirt just hit different than having something come in the mail and it being a touch longer or smaller for your taste - just short of fitting well. I don’t mind surprises but when it comes to my clothes, I’d rather know what’s coming. That being said, here are a few brands that dabble in the realm of bespoke. Although by no means affordable, the garments these brands offer come with the satisfaction that they will fit exactly the way you want them to while also preventing the oh so prevalent issue of textile waste. All it takes is a little extra coin, and a bit of patience for a well-made garment that will fit you like a glove and last you a lifetime.
J Mueser
Source: J Mueser
Starting things off with a NY grown brand. Toted by the likes of All-Star, taste-god podcasters like Lawrence Schlossman of Throwing Fits and Chris Black of How Long Gone (both of which I listen to on a weekly basis) - J Mueser is a wonderful take on suiting. Rarely wavering from its bread and butter besides the occasional field jacket or cashmere knit, the brand’s suit offerings is key here. The brand does a good job in towing the line between relaxed Neapolitan tailoring and New York downtown cool - like perhaps these suits would be worn by the likes of Warhol or Glenn O’Brien.
Saman Amel
Source: Saman Amel
The dynamic duo behind Saman Amel are an absolute force to be reckoned with. When it’s all said and done, I would like these guys to make the tuxedo for my wedding day. Elite level craftsmanship, A-1 editorials and styling, and a diverse product offering outside of their traditional bespoke suiting make these guys unfuckwitable.
Stòffa
Source: Stòffa
Another brand from New York - this time veering into relaxed lounge-wear. Stòffa designs things you might wear while staying at a beachside Aman property. Dainty footwear, wide double pleated linen shorts, spread collar shirting, silk neckwear - all offered in an extremely well executed earthy, tonal palette. This is early Yeezy if it was made for your ultra-wealthy uncle. Just kidding.
Husbands
Source: Husbands
Ah, Parisian style at its finest. Razor sharp double breasted peak lapel jackets in a lush velvet paired with a slightly flared trouser is a seriously decadent look and one that Husbands pulls off in spades. The fabric pairings and silhouettes of the suits are reminiscent of Céline and Hedi-era Saint Laurent - substantial wale corduroy or Harris tweed are used to craft a fully lined jacket with high armholes, classic Roman shoulders, and sleeves that hit right above your cuff. A bonus is the Journal section of their website - where they deep dive into topics of savoir-faire, culture, and inspiration behind their collections.
Godard Haberdashery
Source: Godard Haberdashery
If you’ve been following my other Instagram account, you’d know that I fiercely gatekeep this place to the point that it’s become a running gag that no one knows or cares about - but it makes me giggle every single time. Godard Haberdashery is named after Jean Luc Godard, a French film director with an extreme nicotine addiction and impeccable personal style.
This store oozes character - it feels as if you’ve just stepped into a small boutique in the middle of Le Marais or the 6th Arrondissement, but you’re actually in Shibuya. The RTW product offerings are scant to say the least, and could be described as a rotating selection of sweaters, belts, and some trousers. What Sasako-san (the owner and founder of Godard Haberdashery) instead focuses on is bespoke products - with a focus on trousers. And boy do I love me some trousers.
Sasako-san is an ex-buyer of the heralded Dover Street Market Ginza. While initially offering other brands at Godard such as Stefan Cooke and Namacheko - he has now fully pivoted to tailoring. Sasako will walk you through the process of purchasing a bespoke garment - you can either purchase a custom pair of trousers, jacket, or shirt (or all three!). The styling on display on his Instagram as well as in the storefront is a unique blend of vintage Americana, 70’s French tailoring, and modern fashion sensibilities. One time I walked into the store and saw Sasako wearing a pair of JM Weston hiking boots, thick knit socks, cut-off Levi’s shorts, a distressed Balenci zip-up hoodie, and a vintage Polo Sport cap. And somehow it just blended together seamlessly. Bro cooked.